By Adam Centamore

Travessia Urban Winery sampled their lineup tonight at Bin Ends Wines in Braintree, Massachusetts. While New England will never be confused with Napa Valley or Oregon, Travessia demonstrates the quality possible here when noble grape varietals meet competent winemaking. In downtown New Bedford, of all places.

Travessia opened its doors to the public in December, 2008. Owner and winemaker Marco Montez produces wines from 100% Massachusetts-grown grapes.

Montez grew up making wines with his family in Portugal. “Grape stomping with one’s feet was not a romantic or cool way to crush grapes, it was the only way,” his website proclaims. 

Today, he employs many of the same techniques, and continues to focus on making wines that make sense for the microclimate and region. “I make what nature gives me,” he says. Currently, Travessia offers Chardonnay (both oaked and unoaked), and Vidal Blanc. A rosé will be released shortly, and this fall they will offer Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.

Travessia offers two Chardonnays, oaked and unoaked. Extended lees contact and six months in new and old French oak barrels give the 2008 oaked Chardonnay ($12.00) subtle toasty and buttery notes on the palate. Montez determines when the wine has “had enough” oak simply by tasting it each week, and removing it from the barrels when the time is right. Lime aromas mix with vanilla and lees to help hide the alcohol (13.6% ABV).

The 2008 unoaked Chardonnay ($12.00) offers more citrus and flint on the nose, with a higher acidity and quicker finish than its oaked counterpart. The oaked mouthfeel is fuller and lingers longer than the somewhat thin presence of the unoaked wine.

Travessia also offers two Vidal Blancs. The nose of the 2008 semi-sweet wine ($10.40) shows notes of malt, green apple, and touches of ginger. The wine is viscous and has a great mouthfeel, providing a gentle sweetness featuring subtle pear and mango notes. The perception of alcohol (13.6% ABV) is well balanced with the sweetness and acidity of this wine.

The sweet Vidal Blanc ($11.00) is rich and opulent. This clear, steely yellow wine exhibits aromas of lees and honey with a slight diesel finish. The thick mouthfeel reveals raisins and honey that seem to increase the longer it is savored. Its 11.0% ABV makes this a great wine to end a meal, enjoyed with almond biscotti or a slice of semi-sweet chocolate cake.

Listening to Montez explain how he grew up stomping grapes before bedtime makes it easy to appreciate his love and respect for the winemaking process.

And while New Bedford, Massachusetts may be one of the more unexpected places to find good wine, Travessia shows that quality wines can be found where you least expect them.